Cincinnati is, apparently, known for its chili. I only found out after being teased by my coworkers when I was out sick on our first day in the city: ”uh oh, that Cincinnati chili must’ve gotten to Sam.” Some online reviews have it ranked as the 52nd worst regional food. Out of 50 states, it comes in just behind “getting hit by a car”. Despite the scorn, there’s a lot of fierce support for Cincinnati chili as well. The Washington Post calls it a “regional favorite worthy of a national stage.” And, the James Beard Foundation designated Camp Washington Chili, a popular local spot, as an American Classic in 2000.
What is it?
It’s not the bowl of chili you might be imagining; a hearty stew you might eat with crackers on a cold winter night. No, Cincinnati chili is closer to a thin bolognese, or meat sauce, and is almost always served over noodles or hot dogs.
Anthony Bourdain referred to it as “the story of America on your plate…” And it really is. The dish originates from early twentieth-century Macedonian emigrants fleeing after the first World War. The sauce is full of Greek spices, served over spaghetti, topped with unnaturally-bright cheese, and sports East Coast oyster crackers.
At most food trucks and restaurants you can order it different “ways”:
- “Two-way”: just the base (usually spaghetti) and chili
- “Three-way”: spaghetti, chili, and cheese
- “Four-way”: spaghetti, chili, onions or beans, and cheese
- “Five-way”: spaghetti, chili, onions, beans, and cheese
For my first (amateur) chili order I asked for a five-way, not entirely realizing that this was a serious affair. The waitress at Skyline brought me a bib and extra napkins to protect my sweater.
Add hot sauce for a bit of a kick and oyster crackers for a salty crunch. Some restaurants, like Skyline Chili, will even serve it with a second bowls so you can invert your dish and make the cheese melt underneath. I’m a big fan of melted cheese, so hats off for that innovation!
Where to get it
Our first chili experience was at the local must-visit chain, Skyline Chili. Our friend and long-time Cincinnati resident, Nave, drove up from Oxford one Friday evening to surprise Parker. She insisted we meet her at Skyline when she arrived. After a few drinks on that chilly (ha!) night out, a dish of Cincinnati chili hit the spot perfectly. The waitress was more than happy to help Parker out with his order; she brought out a five-way coney and a four-way spaghetti.
We had quite the feast, and enjoyed it so much we ate chili again the next day. This time it was from The Chili Hut food truck we stumbled upon at the BLINK festival. Even after they ran out of cheese, the line for this local chili was down the block. This time I ordered a coney and wished I had ordered a second.
Our final Cincinnati chili experience was at Gold Star Chili. Gold Star was filling, but definitely our least favorite.
If you find yourself in Cincy and are looking for a great spot to try chili, head to The Chili Hut. And, when it’s late at night head over to your closest Skyline for a solid dish and great service.
Not heading to Cincy anytime soon? You can order pre-made Skyline chili, or try a bottle of local Cincinnati chili spice mix to make your own.